Sunday, June 30, 2013

Happy Places

APPRECIATION. I don't know who to thank: the Weather Gods or human carbon emissions. In a selfish effort to remain carefree for the summer, I will ignore the source and simply share that Alaska has been experiencing record temperature highs and clear skies. In fact, I'm not entirely sure if Dan and Chelsea appreciated the incredible heat and sunshine they experienced on their recent trip to these often frigid and damp lands. To compare, J recalls his childhood road trip to Denali from New Hampshire when his family camped at Wonder Lake for several weeks without ever seeing the mountain. Speaking of Wonder Lake, it had been frozen the week before we took our 90-degree-day dip. Alaskans are beside themselves with the giddy joy of shorts, bikinis and iced beverages. My joking vibe aside, I do truly believe that in order to appreciate and find happiness in the elements of your life, you need to be experiencing a broad spectrum. With our instant gratification society, that spectrum has shrunk quite a bit. Your favorite songs are loaded on your iPod, the grocery store has your favorite ripe fruit all year round, and a hot shower in the morning is par for the course. In Alaska, some of these norms are challenged and with beautiful results. There is no way my Californian friends (save for maybe those of you poor souls in the fog along the coast of Marin) can possibly derive as much pleasure from a simple hot sunny day as we do here after the prolonged snow and cold. I wish you could have all seen Indigo's exuberant reaction when she finally got to walk barefoot in grass this spring. Or noticed the first wildflower bloom. Or heard the first song bird. Some might say that's sad and perhaps we should be living somewhere warmer so she can play amongst grass and flowers all year round. But would she be mindful of it or appreciate it if she did?

Midnight tide pooling.
SUP in the harbor.
Unfortunately, not our boat.
The "High One."

Denali sled dogs.

J started riding at 4AM to bike the whole Denali Park Road.
Pleased as punch.
So is she!
Proof from Ice Cream Newton.

HAPPY PLACES. I discovered my first "happy place" back in college during a plant biochemistry fellowship (Tee hee - you knew I was a science nerd but that sounds extra fancy, hmm?) in eastern Washington state. After a week of working in the lab, I would run the two miles out of town to the airport and take skydiving lessons from my friend Pat. The best story to come from this involved me attempting to do one last dive the morning of my flight back to New Hampshire. We got permission from the airport to let me land there, James Bond-style, and wave adieu to my friends before hopping on my big plane back home. As it turns out, a Bond girl I am not. My hands got too cold in the early morning air, I had a hard time pulling my cord, I made a disastrous landing in a field miles from the airport, I got a piece of wheat lodged in my ear, I scared the begeezits out of Pat and my friends, and I absolutely missed my flight back home. The parents were none too pleased. Anyway, after each drop, we would stretch our parachutes out on the grass and lay on them to push the air out and prepare for repacking. Pat believed that every diver, no matter how much of a newbie, should pack their own chute so they had a sense of ownership over their own safety. The colorful ripstop nylon was warm in the sun and I absolutely loved that moment when I first flopped onto the ground, the fabric billowing, my blood still rushing, and let out a sigh of joy. What makes this a happy place is the fact that I can still conjure this exact feeling years later. The imagery, the sounds, the texture, the balance of exhilaration post-dive and the comfort of earth and warmth and success. In fact, when J and I were preparing to have Indigo, I used this parachute memory during labor practice and her birth as a way to be calm and focused.

Over the years I've only found a few more true happy places... on top of a mountain in Thailand with J... on a dock in New Hampshire with my brother and Dad...

A few days ago, Team Leslie and Grammie Suzan took off on a grand venture across Katchemak Bay south of Homer, Alaska. There, at our "Tent and Breakfast," we found a sweet little glassed-in gazebo decorated inside with pots of fresh flowers and colorful buoys hanging on ropes. After a glorious day of sea kayaking with the whole crew, I sat inside drinking a glass of white wine and watching the tide slip in, three eagles playing in the wind, and the sun slowly making its way across the summer sky. I think I have a new happy place.
Sea Kayaking around the Herring Islands

Looking down on our Tent and Breakfast from our flight back.

Queen of the Sea.

Even the out house was amazing!

Soar.

Biking date to Seldovia.


Wonderful water taxiing.

The Happy Place.

Monday, June 24, 2013

Guest Blogger: Summer Dan

(The following guest blog post is rated PG13 for language, content and length. You see, Dan is a public educator who is forced to be [almost] completely appropriate during the school year. He is now on summer vacation. Consider yourself warned. -KL)
 
SUMMER DAN GUEST BLOGGIN'!!

Ever since the Leslie family announced last year that they'd be moving to Alaska to expand their life experiences and strengthen their careers as educators, I have felt a deep desire to go and visit them. I'm the type of traveler who likes traveling places not only to visit amazing places, but also to visit amazing people. This was the perfect opportunity. So I enlisted the interest of my girlfriend and fellow friend of the Leslie family, Chelsea, and we decided that our big summer vacation would be to head to Alaska. We had a fabulous time not only checking out our nation's 49th state, and certainly one of its oddest, but we also immensely enjoyed the time spent with some great friends, especially Zigzag.

The one and only Zigzag

Traveling to Alaska

Early on, the possibility of going to Alaska looked dismal as the prices out of Portland International Airport were deemed too high for our budget. Getting there seemed to be half the battle. Luckily, Seattle had a bevy of options so we grabbed some cheap tickets on jetBlue and headed north! After our arrival in Anchorage, we knew that we had a small flight to catch on a commuter plane south to the Kenai Peninsula, home to some great breweries, lots of moose and mosquitos, and the Leslie family. However, our flight left Seattle late and we did not have enough time to make our connecting flight to Kenai. This meant we were spending the night in the airport. We weren't the only ones. Ted Stevens International Airport & Hotel was open for business!

Our first glimpse of Alaska!
This is a regular occurrence here at Ted Stevens International Airport & Hotel

After getting a quick three hour nap, we woke up with plenty of time to make our commuter flight to Kenai. We then spent the first four days of our trip enjoying a lot of what the Kenai Peninsula has to offer from the Homer Spit to the Byron Glacier. From there, we traveled north into South-central Alaska for three nights and four days of fun in Denali National Park and Preserve. As we drove back south, we realized that we could definitely stay in Alaska for the whole summer and still not see half of what the state has to offer visitors. For your reading pleasure, the following is a synopsis of what Chelsea and I experienced on our visit to Alaska with the Leslie family!

Dark Underlying Theme of Death on the Vacation

Throughout our visit to Alaska, we were constantly faced with the prospect of dying. You see, everything is not only bigger in Alaska, but more plentiful. Like the moose. They're everywhere. Moose is what happened when a Jersey cow and a camel procreated long ago. Just think about it... Anyways, the roads in Alaska are quite wide and roughly 10-20 feet of foliage on both sides of the highway are completely cleared to allow for a moose sighting as soon as possible. Then there are the mosquitos. We were lucky to visit Alaska during an abnormal, yet greatly appreciated, stretch of sunny bluebird hot weather. However, we also had the luck of visiting Alaska after a winter that didn't quite follow tradition and allowed for a bevy of mosquitos to wreak havoc on every single part of my epidermis. LOTS OF MOSQUITOS!

First meal in Denali.

Another way your life could end in Alaska would be if a grizzly bear decided to maul you for no apparent reason, especially if you simply don't follow the rules. On our visit to Denali National Park and Preserve, Chelsea and I did observe a couple of grizzly bears. We were hiking the Triple Lakes Trail south of the park's entrance and when we stopped to take a break from the mosquitos and lingering heat on the top of the ridge. It was there that Chelsea noticed large brown objects moving about the river and we determined that it couldn't be a camel, an elephant, or a narwhal. They had to be grizzly bears. I would be lying to you if I said my heart rate wasn't slightly elevated on the rest of the hike, especially the part where we descended down to the river banks.

You could be swept out to sea while you struggle to operate your paddleboard against the destructive force of the wind.

Kim, Summer Dan, and Chelsea stand-up paddleboarding off of the Homer Spit

Your flight on a turboprop chicken coop from Anchorage to Kenai could suddenly lose its thrust and slam into the Cook Inlet.
Our plane from Anchorage to Kenai

You could fall into a crevasse and never be heard from again.

Averting crevasses and getting a snowtan!

You could drink too much and end up having a dress-up party with a 4.5 year old.


I feel accomplished that I made it out of Alaska alive!

Tourism [i]

Visiting Alaska was an amazing experience! However, we weren't the only ones that had the idea to fly north for a part of our summer. In fact, five major airlines only operate at the Anchorage airport seasonally. As we drove throughout the Kenai Peninsula and into the wilderness of South-central Alaska via Alaska State Route 3, we were surrounded by other people doing the exact same thing we were doing: averting death! People rented R.V.s by the thousands. People wore fanny packs! People stopped on the side of the road and took way too many pictures. People complained about the heat. People paid for overpriced tchotchkes. People rode in buses. People were bused into Denali National Park and Preserve by the hundreds from their cruise ship docks. Tourists were everywhere! There was no escape, that is unless you wanted to run into the wilderness and increase your chance of DYING!

A mecca of the tourism industry in Alaska is obviously the great outdoors. Alaska is home to a shit ton of national parks. It's home to the three biggest national parks: 1) Wrangell- St. Elias, 2) Gates of the Arctic, and 3) Denali. There are plenty more. We traveled to Denali National Park and Preserve for a three night camping bonanza. For those of you that are unaware of how Denali National Park and Preserve works, it's roughly the size of Massachusetts and there's one road into the park. Imagine Massholes trying to get into Boston using one road?!?! Anyways, the public is not allowed to drive into the park past mile marker 15. The only way in is to drop some money and take a bus into the park. Think school bus because you're surrounded by people you don't like, but with a much cooler bus driver, wildlife at every turn, better seats, the possibility of air conditioning, bathroom breaks every hour, and the ability to stop the bus whenever you want by yelling, "STOP! MOOSE AT 9 O'CLOCK! WAIT- MAYBE IT'S A BEAR. NOPE! JUST A CARIBOU!" From the park entrance to the end of the park road is a mere 92 mile bus ride.

Caribou

Red Fox

One of the highlights of dealing with the tourism industry of Alaska came on our first afternoon of camping at Wonder Lake campground deep within Denali National Park and Preserve. Swarmed with mosquitoes and the record-breaking temperatures, we decided to jump into Wonder Lake and enjoy an unseasonably comfortable float sesh in Alaska in our undies. As we got out and began to dry off, a park bus pulled up and unloaded dozens and dozens of tourists right on our little beach that we were sharing with a cool couple from Ohio. There we were in our undies instantly swarmed by- not mosquitoes- but by hoards of Princess Cruise lines passengers. The best part was this guy:

American Tourist
Upon getting off the bus, this guy yelled to his wife, "YUP! YUP! THIS IS IT! I DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, BUT I CAME HERE TO GET SOME SHOTS- YOU DO NOT WANT TO FOLLOW ME!" Then ignoring the colossal mountain behind him...

Mt. McKinley or Mt. Denali

Took a picture of this...
A rare June reprieve in Wonder Lake

Still awe-inspiring for sure, but it certainly did not make sense how this guy and many other tourists completely ignored the mountain and just snapped a picture of a lake that could be any lake in New England. Ahhh tourists...

Car Games

When you visit Alaska and have motivated your hosts to drive you all over the state,[ii] you're probably going to end up playing some roadtrip games. Allow me to go over some of the games we played on the road.

Indigo Making Up Her Own Jokes- This involves Indigo just making up jokes and laughing herself silly. Quite entertaining actually.

Using the Google Box to Look Up Appropriate Jokes- Some jokes, like "What's the difference between jelly and jam?" are just too inappropriate to for a four-and-half-year old. Thank god for the Google Box! All you have to do is type in "Appropriate jokes for a four-year-old" into your smart phone's web browser and enjoy the laughs. Our favorite joke was "What kind of bees give milk? BOO-BEES!"

Sing-A-Long- Ok, so we didn't play this in the car, but we played it in other locations and it's just fun! Simply start singing old Disney or Salt 'N' Pepa songs and you're bound to make the travel pass by quicker. Just make sure the songs are morally sound and appropriate.[iii]

Anal Game- Before Chelsea and I left Seattle to fly to the last frontier[iv], our friends Mark and D told us of a really fun game; simply add the word "anal" at the beginning of every car you see. Ford tends to have the best cars to add the word "anal" onto like Anal Escape and Anal Excursion. You could make the game even more fun when you place this simple rule to R.V.s, which are plentiful in Alaska! You can come up with Anal Rambler, Anal Cougar, Anal Allure. However, we took this game to whole new levels when we were walking on the docks of the Homer Spit and decided to add the word "anal" onto boat names! Anal Silver Fox, Anal Deep Dive, Anal Stealth, Anal Reel Easy. It's pretty fun!

The small boat harbor in Homer, Alaska

Indigo's "Tell Me A Story" Game- Indigo loves hearing stories about other people's childhoods. Chelsea enlightened with her many stories about growing up in Maine and causing a ruckus with her three siblings. My favorite was the one where Chelsea's mom left their older brother Justin on the side of the road because he was teasing Chelsea. CLASSIC!

I Spy- It's simple. Pick something out that you see and say, "I Spy..." and describe what you see. It's the other person's job to use you descriptions to identify what it is you spy. Just be warned- objects may change constantly when playing with a four year old.

Silent Game- First person to say something loses.

License Plate Game- First person to see a license plate from every state and Washington D.C. wins! This game is traditionally played between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day weekend because everyone is driving around in the summer. If anybody in the Hood River area sees either a Delaware or Rhode Island license plate, please text me immediately!

Brewery Reviews
 
Over the course of our visit in Alaska, we had the pleasure of visiting six different breweries. At one point Kim said, "We're just going to go ahead and assume that you have no problem stopping at any brewery." Usually making assumptions, like the time I assumed locking my babysitter out of the house because I didn't like her would be acceptable, don't work out. However, this assumption worked out!

St. Elias Brewing, Soldotna, Alaska- One of the beers at St. Elias is named "The Melvinator" which is only funny for a couple of people that read this blog that have a grandfather named Melvin who would never think to add "-ator" onto his name. The brews were solid and there was a range of them so 5,000 points. They also had really attractive waitresses for a 1,000 point bonus! But, they lost those 1,000 bonus points because they weren't nearly as cool or as attentive as my girlfriend, Chelsea, is. However, the mirror in the guy's bathroom was the best of the trip, so another 2,000 points. Final score: 7,000 points.

Me with Chelsea, my pretty cool girlfriend.
Homer Brewing Company, Homer, Alaska- As I was standing in line to order a beer, the woman in front of me inquired the bartender if they were currently selling sausages. Much like how a dog jumps to attention at the sight of a squirrel, I was immediately all ears. However, the dude that worked at the brewery grillin' up sausages for the masses had just left to work his other job on the North Slope of Alaska. (Much like many residents of the Kenai Peninsula, this individual works for two weeks straight on the oil fields in Northern Alaska then gets two weeks off. Instead of catching up on Price is Right episodes during his two-weeks off, this dude grilled sausages at a brewing company.) The marriage between me and my sausage, even though not yet recognized under federal law, was not meant to be on our visit to Homer Brewing Company. My final grade: 7/10.

Kassik's Brewing Company, Kenai, Alaska- I previously mentioned we visited six breweries, but if you count closely, I look to be reviewing seven. I'll be perfectly honest here; we never went to Kassik's.  However, I did try a couple of their beers in the form of 22 ounce bottles and they were not only delicious, but pretty god damn creative. There are Beavertail Blonde and Morningwood IPA, the latter coming with the motto, "Never let morning wood go to waste." For reasons that don't need further reasoning, Kassik's scores an A+. [v]

Enough said.

Denali Brewing Company, Talkeetna, Alaska- This was a pretty cool spot, but using J Leslie's Informal Guide to Evaluating the Three Bs (Businesses, Breweries, and Brothels), it lost 1,000 points when it charged $2 for a sticker, which I promptly lost, which equates to another 1,000 point deduction. However, the beer garden was comfy, the staff rocked- our waitress had a tattoo of some chemical component for attraction on her chest-, was attentive, and the town of Talkeetna was pretty cool. Overall GPA: 3.65

49th State Brewing Company, Healy, Alaska- 49th State Brewing is located about eight miles north of the entrance to Denali National Park and Preserve in Healy, Alaska. But much like how Smugglers' Notch Vermont claims to be located in the town of Smugglers' Notch Vermont and not actually Jeffersonville (05464 REPRESENTIN'!), 49th State Brewing Company advertises they're in Denali Park, Alaska, even though they are clearly in Healy. This is a personal pet peeve of mine, as you probably would've surmised if you're still reading this paragraph. Anyways, because of their proximity to a National Park, sandwiches are $15 and entrees are well over $20. Their front yard has a stage, a massive amount of games, a patio with many tables for diners to take in what was then a unheard of 80 degree plus weather and eternal sun, a firepit, and the bus that was used in the film Into the Wild. The decor on the inside was a mix of antlers, white lights, different empty 22 ounce bottles of beer from throughout the world, and a massive whiskey selection that would make any Portlander open a tab immediately. Plus, while we didn't get to experience it on our visit, they had a massive party scene with bands playing constantly. After all, going to 49th State Brewing instead of the Aramark-managed cafeteria in Denali National Park would be a great choice. I ordered the pulled pork special and I thought there could've been more pull to it instead of chunks. Don't give me wrong here, I love chunks of swine dripping in sauce, but it wasn't quite what I had envisioned when I ordered the pulled pork special.  Plus, they certainly wouldn't have broken the budget had they've put more fries on my plate. Therefore 49th State Brewing earns 3 out of 5 stars.[vi]

Midnight Sun Brewing, Anchorage, Alaska- We arrived at 7:54 PM and were informed they closed at 8 and we already missed the last call for food. Pretty ironic that a brewery with the name "Midnight Sun" is only open until 8PM. That was a bummer. We definitely got the "Last Call You Walked In Right Before We Close We Just Want to Go Home and Hit our Otter Box" treatment from our waitress, which hurt their score. Final score: one thumb up.[vii]

The Moose's Tooth, Anchorage, Alaska- Due to the fact that were about to fall over the precipice of Sanity and enter the dark realm of Hangry, we had to find another place to get some grub after Midnight Sun Brewing had legally taken action to change their name to 11AM-8PM Brewing. So we found ourselves at the Moose's Tooth. The Moose's Tooth is an extremely popular craft beer and pizza joint, think chain restaurant "We'll Give You A Pager When We Have Your Table Ready" type busy. The pizza turned out great and even though our waitress forgot to put in our order for mozzarella sticks, it worked out well. We had to leave due to my increasing preflight anxiety. Overall, our visit to the Moose's Tooth was solid. [viii] And J informed me that the Moose's Tooth was part of the inspiration for the Sawtooth Roadhouse in Parkdale, Oregon! They received an overall score of 87.89%.

Guest Blogger Summer Dan's Pop-Quiz

Congratulations! You've finished reading Summer Dan's Guest Blog! It was certainly an almost insurmountable task that you've accomplished with gusto. Actually, I'm shocked if anybody besides my mother is still reading this blog entry. Now, for the pop quiz!

1.) According to Indigo, the definition of a "testicle" is...
a. A weird penis
b. Her dad's preferred hair style
c. A seagull's bladder
d. A sperm factory

2.) The walls of The Salty Dawg in Homer, Alaska are adorned with dollar bills that patrons write messages on and tack up. Which wiseass made the following statement (in grey) when I texted them and told them I would have a difficult time finding the one they tacked up several years ago?

I apologize for the language.
a. Chip Rogers
b. Scotti Conley
c. Betsy Harmon
d. Andy Roof

(Apparently they take down most of the money at the end of every year and donate it to charity. J was quick to quip that the owner's daughter is probably named Charity.)

3.) What does J Leslie refer to his family's pink comb by?
a. The Family Affair Comb
b. Dirty Hippie's Comb
c. Livestock Comb
d. Socrates

4.) Denali National Park is home to Mt. McKinley, North America's tallest mountain. The Natives affectionately refer to it is "Denali" before the white folk had to go ahead and name it after a loser of a president. According to the Natives, "Denali" means what?
a.) The Stoned One
b.) The High One
c.) The Blitzed One
d.) The Baked One

5.) Alaska is home to the following...
a. 5,421,245 moose
b. Sarah Palin
c. 'Merika!
d. All of the above

6.) What time was this picture taken?

a.) 7 AM
b.) 7 PM
c.) 11 PM
d.) Who the hell really knows?!?!


Answers:
1.) A
2.) C
3.) C
4.) B
5.) D
6.) D

Scoring Guide:

0-2: I'm shocked you actually tried to take this test.
3-4: Ted Stevens is going to rise up from his grave to high-five ya, brah!
5-6: You really scored this high?! You should be ashamed.


The Guest Blogger with his girlfriend/I.S.P. (Intimate Scrabble Partner) Chelsea, and the infamous Goaticorn of Finn's Pizza in Homer, Alaska.





[i] Upon reflecting in awe on the huge amount of tourists seen around the state, J was quick to point out that while the tourism industry is massive, it pales in comparison with the oil industry.
[ii] Ok, we didn't drive over the "whole" state, but we did put over 1,000 miles on Ice Cream Newton!
[iii] Alan Menken and Howard Ashman wrote the music and lyrics for many of the Disney movies from the late 1980s and 1990s. They were, undoubtedly, amazing at what they did. However, upon singing part of Under the Sea on the roadtrip, we realized that the lyrics contained the following abrupt and scandalous lines: Darling it's better/Down where it's wetter/Take it from me. Whoa...
[iv] The Final Frontier being space of course. Thank you Gene Roddenberry. Thank you!
[v] For reasons that unfortunately don't need explaining, Safeway and Wal-Mart refuse to sell beers from Kassik's Brewing Company.
[vi] We visited 49th State Brewing after a long day of riding the bus out of Denali National Park. I could've eaten a horse. Could you blame me for wanting more fries?
[vii] Upon a series of direct questioning, I learned that their liquor license only allows them to stay open for a nine-hour period and they currently chose 11-8. The owners are fighting this and hoping to expand their hours.
[viii] "Solid" as in an amazing thing to eat after your red-eye flight lands in Seattle and you've just spent roughly 90 hung-the-hell-over minutes taking public transportation back to your friend's place in the Greenwood district to get your car.

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Type 1 Travel

TYPE 1, 2 AND 3. Just when you were getting disillusioned that photos of moose t-shirts had replaced photos of actual moose, the "adventure" in The Alaska Adventure has returned in the form of our first summer road trip. Now I recently read a piece in Alaska Magazine which introduced me to the idea of Type 1, 2 and 3 travel experiences. Please see if you can relate:
Type 1 - On the trip, you have a blast and when you return home, you can't stop talking about how great it was.
Type 2 - On the trip, you face your fair share of challenges and it's not that fun... but upon return home, the value of the trip becomes clear and you reflect on it fondly.
Type 3 - On the trip, you have a terrible time. After the trip, you still wish you had never gone.
Now at least in our American casual interactions, Type 3s are hard to own up to. We have some friends who got married and headed off for a fancy honeymoon abroad; when the groom's expired passport prevented them from boarding the plane, they returned home, hid out, and didn't tell a soul until they were able to belatedly take the trip a week later. It's hard to admit when something that was supposed to be great, is simply not.

Our latest venture had some precarious moments (like our first night out tent camping in frigid Valdez in a snow-covered gravel parking lot amidst military RVers... or a 3 hour evac to a tribal clinic in what turned out to be a false-alarm UTI for Miss Indigo... or J's ski binding appearing to bust at the top of a mountain in the Hatcher Pass backcountry), but in the end, we had a certified Type 1 Alaska adventure tour in the midnight sun while gallivanting on foot, ferry, bikes, skis and of course, good old Ice Cream Newton.

WHITTIER TO VALDEZ. Our great friend Chris joined us early on a Thursday morning, transferring even more gear (plus salmon, halibut and good coffee) into Ice Cream Newton, and we hit the road to the five hour ferry across incredible Prince William Sound. Sea otters hauled out on ice bergs and mountain goats clung to cliffs as we slowly made our way between islands. Awesome.




THOMPSON PASS. A backcountry ski Mecca, Thompson Pass provided low visibility but high fun.



LIBERTY FALLS. In true Alaska style, this side-of-the-road campground had super sketchy unmarked (but no warning signs) scramble paths up to the cliffs above the rushing water that gave just the grownups (we're not that crazy) that wonderously giddy feeling of being oh-so-alive.


THE MCCARTHY ROAD. We wanted to experience a part of the massive area known as Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. To quote the NPS, this, the largest park in America is "13.2 million acres which is bigger than the country of Switzerland," not to mention that it has over 5000 square miles covered by glacier. Epic. Expectedly, getting in there was epic too! The remote towns of McCarthy and Kennicott can only be reached via the famed dirt McCarthy Road (whose sign warns of loose railroad spikes and no further services) followed by a series of pedestrian-only foot bridges. It also sports a spectacular one-way, 200 foot plus tall bridge over a river gorge that until recently had no side rails (but does have a vomit-inducing cat track beneath it... again, no warning signs), as well as many dilapidated railroad trellises, ripe for the climbing.



MCCARTHY. A short bike ride or hike over the river found us a hundred years back in time.  A town with a fascinating past, folks have worked hard to maintain its history and its charm. One story worth mentioning (as told to me by a kind museum volunteer): The big copper mill and mines five miles up the road in Kennicott are what fueled the McCarthy economy back in the early 1900's. Folks would come in on the train to work up at the mine and many established homes with their families in both little towns. Incredibly, when the copper began to run out in the late 1930's, the mining company didn't tell the workers for fear they would leave early to find new jobs. Instead, in November of 1938, the company told the community one hour before the very last train was to leave McCarthy and Kennicott forever. Families scrambled to get their children, extra clothes and a bit of food for the surprise journey. All other belongings like furniture, photographs, sewing machines, china, etc. were all left behind in the rush to catch the train. Wow.

Heading to McCarthy over the bridge
J and I scored a little date here (Thanks Chris!)


KENNICOTT. The spectacular structure of the copper mill still remains and is under renovation as a part of a Wrangell-St.Elias National Park and Preserve effort. The spectacular Root Glacier still remains too, with incredible trails to explore leading right onto the ice.


HATCHER PASS. Thanks to the aforementioned Indigo evac, we found ourselves back in civilization a day or two before we had planned and added an extra detour to our loop. Hatcher Pass, just outside and north of Palmer and Anchorage, was nothing short of an alpine heaven complete with a sweet lodge and heated cabins where we slept indoors for the first time in a week.




GIRDWOOD. Our last night camping on the road, we swung into beautiful Girdwood and promptly saw a black bear meandering down the road and lumbering into the lush forest. Following his lead, we too found a spot to nestle in the trees, fry some fiddleheads, and wake to one more sunny day on a top notch, Type 1 trip!


Note: Our friends Dan and Chelsea arrive tomorrow for their own Alaska adventure that will include our next road trip up to Denali. Stay tuned for another Guest Blogger feature from none other than Mr. B!